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Rear CV axle seal install

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4.1K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  reogem  
#1 ·
Hey all - Not my first rodeo with repairing ATV's, but wondering what others thoughts here. I put two new axles in the rear of my 02 Grizzly 660. Had a torn CV boot, so I just replaced the both of em with new axles. I also replaced the seals going into the differential, as it didn't leak with old axles, and I wanted new seals to wear into the new axles properly. The machine was so jimmy rigged when I got it that I don't know how it even ran, lol, so I don't trust any of their shoddy work when I fix or replace things. I try to do it right. My question is, on the right rear side, the seal was pushed in until it mated with the internals, maybe 1\4" from being flush with casing. The left side barely went in past the casing, so I know that one is ok, but is the right side ok like that? It didn't leak before, and I put the new seal in the same position, but I am just curious as to what the thoughts are here. The axle has a lot of "Meat" going through that seal, so if seal is pushed in too far, I think it'll be ok, but again, your opinions matter. I did watch a youtube video, and the guy pushed his in the same way, making a point to say to push it in past the "Flush" position with the gearbox. However way down in the comments people say it should be flush with edge of differential. I'm not 100% sure it matters, and is an easy cheap fix, if needed, but what do you all think on this? I haven't tested it yet, just finished last night.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Well not much input on this post. I just pulled the axle and worked the seal out that 1/4 inch to be flush with gearbox housing. Maybe the previous owners didn't install that one and it was actually correct when I took it out, lol. I just worked it out slowly with a large screwdriver, careful not to scrape or damage anything, and it slowly and easily slid to outside where it belongs, and it didn't pop out. Was simple, 20 minutes. Maybe this will help someone down the road, install body of seal flush with differential.
 
#3 ·
The seals should be flush with the lip of the diff casting.
"Install oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible.
When installing oil seals, apply a light coating of lightweight lithium base grease to the
seal lips".
 
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#4 ·
The seals should be flush with the lip of the diff casting.
"Install oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible.
When installing oil seals, apply a light coating of lightweight lithium base grease to the
seal lips".
Thanks again, reogem - I went ahead and slid the seal out to that position. Instead of lithium grease, I just dabbed my finger in gear oil and went around seal during installation. Went in no problem, and was also able to slide it out to the right position after the fact. I then went and drained\refilled rear end with fresh fluid. Next task is front lower ball joints.... Machine was very rigged and neglected when I got it many years ago. I am slowly fixing things now, a little at a time. Thank God for Ebay, parts are cheap for it, but undoing some peoples rigging can be a real PITA. Lets see if I can get the old ball joints out with a big bench vise, if not, I'll run to O'reillys and rent a ball join compressor to save the headache. lol
 
#5 ·
Be careful with ebay parts. Many non OEM parts are junk.
Diff grease is not nearly as good a lithium grease but it is better than nothing.